pictured rocks national lakeshore.

We drove to the Upper Peninsula as part of our ultimate Midwest road trip. The trip began by driving through Chicago, up through Wisconsin into the Boundary Water region. After kayaking through Voyageurs National Park, we drove back down through Minnesota, across Wisconsin, until we got to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. 

The UP definitely followed our trip’s theme of remoteness. I had been to the UP to snow mobile a few years past but this was Logan’s first time. First of all, the UP is must wider than I had realized. It took us almost five hours to drive from the far west side of the peninsula to where we were staying near Munising. Majority of our time spent in the UP, we had no cell service. Make sure to plan your route ahead of time so you don’t get lost. Thankfully, it’s pretty much a straight shot across the peninsula with very few route splits.

Since we were camping while in the UP, we needed to stop for groceries. There are very few towns in the UP, we stopped at the biggest town, Marquette. Marquette ended up being much larger of a city than we anticipated. There was everything you needed and even looked like a neat destination for another trip. 

We got camping supplies at the local Walmart and then decided to stop at Ore Dock Brewing Company in Marquette before driving the final hour to our campground. Ore Dock was right downtown Marquette, in an old brick building. The brewery was packed, it was definitely the place to be. They had several fruity beers and sour options. If you are in the area, this would be a great place to check out. 

From Marquette, our campground was about an hour away. We camped at Pete’s Lake Campground. The campground was small, it was tucked away in the woods and felt very remote even though we had camping neighbors. If planning to visit Pictured Rocks, this is a great location. From our campground to Pictured Rocks, it was only a 20 minute drive. If you want to camp closer to Pictured Rocks, you will need to book far out and you will need to expect large crowds. We loved the solitude and remoteness at Pete’s Lake. 

We spent two nights at Pete’s lake with our full day planned to kayak along the Pictured Rocks lakeshore. After cooking eggs, coffee, and toast over the campfire, we layered up and headed towards the town of Munising, Michigan. We stopped for coffee at the local coffee shop, Falling Rock Cafe. They had delicious cherry coffee, when in Rome, right?!

We booked our six hour kayaking tour through Paddle Pictured Rocks. This cost $175 per person but unless you own your own sea kayaks and have your own personal guide, it’s the best way to experience the shoreline.  Because Lake Superior can get such big waves, you are only allowed to paddle this section of the coast if you have a guide. The coast guard actually drives up and down the coast to ensure everyone has a guide with them. 

The only other way to experience the rocks from the water is by loading onto an overcrowded boat that speeds past the rocks. When I say overcrowded, I mean overcrowded. The boats were so packed, it looked as though the passengers could barely move. 

As you research companies to book kayaking through, you’ll notice three different names of companies but in reality, these companies are all the same. There really is only one umbrella of a company that controls the kayaking market along the lakeshore. Save yourself some time and just book through Paddle Pictured Rocks! I was really hesitant to pay that much money, but it’s one of those things you only do once. I can honestly say, it was worth the money! Another thing to note is, if you are physically fit enough, the six hour tour is so worth it! The shorter tour turned back around so early, they barely got to see anything. I’m really glad we did the full six hours, though I will say, if I was stuck in a kayak by myself, I think I would have been stuck in the middle of Lake Superior. It’s hard work! Thankfully, you are required to have a partner and ride tandem, but the waves and paddling were no joke. We were absolutely exhausted by the end of the six hours.

Lake Superior was so clear, I was absolutely amazed. The water reminded me of the Caribbean, bright blue and green and completely clear. We paddled over a shipwreck and we could even see the details of the boat. The beginning of the tour was a bit crowded as all tours started at the same time. But if you are doing the six hour, don’t worry, you will quickly out paddle the shorter tour and the water will be much less crowded. The tour took us through a cave, along towering colored rocks, and even through an arch. We stopped for lunch along a beach that we got to explore and rest at. It was nice to get out of the kayak and dry off, because of how big the waves are, you definitely get wet and the water was freezing! 

Mosquito Beach, April 2021

After the trip was over, we changed into warm clothes in the car and stopped for a drink at By George Brewing Company in Munising. This was a small brewery with live music. It was definitely a locals spot, everyone knew everyone! After By George, we drove back to our campsite, cooked dinner and warmed up by the fire. 

Did you know you can cook rice over the fire? We made the most delicious meal: white rice, chicken brother, turkey sausage, onions, and bell peppers all thrown together in a tin foil pack. Something about food cooked over the fire just hits differently. We definitely slept well that night. 

The next morning we packed up and headed east, out of the UP, over the infamous Mackinac Bridge, and south towards home. On our way home, we stopped in Lansing and the Lansing Brewing Company for lunch. I recommend their fried pickles!

We had a blast in the Upper Peninsula. Make sure to pack warm clothes, it’s farther north than you think! Even in the summer time, temperatures got down to the low 50’s at night. Don’t forget to book your campsite and kayak experience ahead of time and you will have a great trip!

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boundary waters, mn.

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the ultimate northern michigan loop.