cambodia.

I have been avoiding writing about Cambodia for awhile now because honestly, I don’t know how to put into words my experience in Cambodia. To put it simply, Cambodia opened my eyes to how big of a world we have and what a tiny space me and my problems occupy. If you have a chance to travel someone, completely different than where you live, don’t hesitate, just go.

Why Cambodia you may ask? Well, I was traveling to South East Asia with a Non-Profit Organization called Destiny Rescue. This NPO rescues young girls from the sex trade and restores their lives via education, safe houses, and job training. What an amazing organization and my life was changed after seeing the work that they do. Destiny works all over Asia as well as Central America. The trip I went on traveled throughout Thailand and Cambodia. I signed up for the trip not realizing we would also be going to Cambodia, and honestly, I was upset because that meant my time in Thailand would be cut short. But God has a good and perfect plan and I ended up loving Cambodia even more than Thailand!

Most of my time in Cambodia was working at the brothels and rescue homes but I will share my tips and tricks of navigating Cambodia below.

In order to enter Cambodia, I had to pay for a tourist visa as soon as I entered the country. The visa process didn’t take long but it did cost $50 USD. This is simply a money maker for the country, so don’t stress about it but know that you will have to pay the fee.

Khmer, the Cambodian natives, are extremely friendly people. However, English is not widely spoken. We traveled with a translator throughout our time there. I recommend making sure to carry cash on you as many facilities do not accept American credit cards. I also recommend drinking bottled water only. I remember the first time I ordered Khmer tea (amazing!!), they served me the tea in a plastic bag with a straw coming out the top! Apparently this is a normal way to serve coffee and tea.

There is so much to explore in Cambodia. Phnom Penh, the capitol, is a largely populated city. There are many skyscrapers and so many options to eat! In Phnom Penh, the streets are long and narrow. Cars are few and far between. The most common modes of transportation are mopeds and tuk tuk’s. To get a ride, you simply need to flag down a tuk tuk, similar to how you flag down a taxi. Before you hop on the tuk tuk, make sure to negotiate the price of your ride. It is common for prices to be higher for Americans. I was also picked up from the airport in a tuk tuk, don’t worry about your luggage, it will fit!

View of Phnom Penh from the New Midtown Hotel, July 2016

I really enjoyed navigating the markets in Phnom Penh. I have never had such fresh fruit! The markets are full of unique cuisine and local goods. These markets are similar to a swap meet where every price can be negotiated. With markets being on seemingly every street, the streets can get really crowded. I recommend holding your personal belongings in front of you.

Between the local spices and dense population, the country certainly has a unique smell. It’s common to be walking down the street next to mounds of trash. Most of the hotels I stayed at did not have air conditioning. I visited Cambodia during their summer, needless to say, the weather was very hot and humid. The second I got out of the shower, I was already sweating again. Make sure to pack light and thin clothes. I walked A LOT in Cambodia so walking shoes are also a must.

While touring the city, you will notice dozens of establishments called KTV’s. Please do not support these businesses. A KTV is a Cambodian brothel. Young girls are promised jobs that will help take care of their families and so they go with these pimps and are then trapped inside of KTV’s. Many girls live in the backs of these brothels and never get to see daylight. You will be alarmed at how many KTV’s there are all over Cambodia, even in the small towns. This is where Destiny Rescue comes in. Destiny has undercover rescue agents that will go to these brothels and hunt down young girls (under 18). The agent will then continue to purchase the girl night after night until they can earn their trust. The agent will take the girl to the room in the brothel and promise a life of safety and freedom. If the girl agrees, the agent will help the girl escape to a safe house (owned by Destiny) in a different city. Once at the safe house, the young girl will receive the medical attention needed, counseling, and job training. The amount of brothels I saw throughout both Cambodia and Thailand was gut wrenching and still haunts me. But the work that Destiny and other anti-human trafficking organizations are doing, is life changing. I was able to experience this with my own eyes and I will never ever forget it.

Weaving around Phnom Penh is a very wide river. This river provides so many jobs and is home to many house boats. I was privileged enough to ride on a double decker old wooden boat down the river at night. The boat ride gave me the chance to view the city from afar and take in all that it has to offer. While on the boat, I saw the King’s palace, right a long the river. The King is everywhere in Phnom Penh, from statues to billboards, his face is known. After the river ride, I walked along the river walk which took me up close to the palace.

Cambodia recently had a civil war (ended in 1975). Phenom Penh is home to the killing fields as well as the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. Though a very dark and cold experience, I recommend taking a couple of hours to tour the killing fields (you have to take a tuk tuk from the fields to the museum). I think you can better appreciate a country and culture by understanding the history of the people. The crazy thing is, the Cambodian civil war happened not too long ago. Walking throughout the killing fields, you can still see human bones that are buried in the ground along with a pile of the skulls that were later found. There is an audio guided tour that you can do at your own pace.

After Phenom Penh, we took a bus ride to the city of Kampong Cham. The bus ride is just under two and a half hours. Keep in mind, this drive is not on major highways, rather, rural, country roads. About half way between Phnom Penh and Kampong Cham, we stopped at the Spider Market. The drive between the cities is farmland only, so you will not miss this large market on the side of the road. The market has bathrooms, fresh fruit and veggie vendors. The Spider Market is full of children that go to work with their parents. The children will beg you for money, they are trained and they are good! Just be careful and know that it's okay to say no.

Unless in a nicer restaurant or hotel, many of the bathrooms throughout Cambodia are called “squatty potties.” Yep, these are exactly what they sound like. You go into a room that has a hole in the ground and a barrel of water with a pot. After relieving yourself, you must use the water and pot to “flush” down your waste. Keep in mind, some restrooms will have a woman haggling you to sell you toilet paper. I recommend bringing tissues with you and always having them on your body.

Alright, now to the Spider Market. The market is full of spiders, grasshoppers, ants, flies, and even scorpions that have been roasted over the fire. Insects are a common delicacy in Cambodia. When in Rome, right?! I have to be honest, I was freaking out! To experience the full process, once of the vendors will show you a large bucket that is full of LIVE tarantulas. You must point to the spider you want and the vendor will put the spider in your cupped hands. Next, you are supposed to kiss the spider and immediately toss the spider onto the grill. The vendor will cook the spider just long enough until it dies ( the hair is still on!!!) and then he will serve you your delicious snack! To eat the spider, first pull off all of the legs and eat those, then, if you are brave enough, you eat the body! Though I wouldn’t be super excited to eat another tarantula, you have to do this. It’s all about the experience and emerging yourself in the culture. And if I’m being really honest, the tarantula tasted a lot like chicken…only hairy.

Kampong Cham is a farming community and is much smaller than Phnom Penh and not very touristy. I remember driving past miles and miles of rice fields and even having to drive off road due to oxen blocking the way! On our way to Kampong Cham, we stopped for bamboo rice. If you happen to come across a hut selling sticks of bamboo, make sure to stop! This is a traditional Khmer way of preparing rice. Both rice and beans are stuffed into a rod of bamboo filled with coconut milk and then roasted on an open fire. It’s so fun to break off the bamboo and use this as a spoon to shovel out the rice!

In Kampong Cham, along the beautiful river walk, Destiny Rescue has a cafe. Destiny will train young girls to be seamstresses, baristas, waitresses, hair stylists, and more. If a girl chooses the restaurant industry, she will get to work at the Destiny Cafe. Not only does this cafe support life-changing causes, it actually has really good food! Do yourself a favor and get a smoothie at the Destiny Cafe.

While in Kampong Cham, each morning I would walk along the river. There are beautiful statues and flowers along the river. I also recommend getting a Khmer massage! Be careful to make sure the massage parlor you are going to is not also a brothel. Trust me, you will know. I received an amazing massage for $5 USD.

Nearby Kampong Cham is the Cheung Kok village. Wow. I though I had a good grasp on poverty until I visited this village. The entire village has no electricity and all of the residents live in handmade huts. We took a tour of this village and I was blown away and so humbled. The joy that these people had far outweighed the physical items that they would ever own. Someone recommended I pack something with me that I can pass out to children to spread joy while on my trip. I decided to pack balloons (easy to travel with). While in this village, I blew up a few balloons and passed them out to the children. You wouldn’t believe their faces! If you do visit Cambodia, I recommend bringing something small like this that you can carry with you and pass out to the kids. Please be aware, many of the children we saw did not have clothes on. Visiting this village is a very eye-opening experience but it is not for everyone. Be brave enough to break your own heart.

Yarn Making, Cheong Kok Village, Kampong Cham, July 2016

Cheong Kok Village, Kampong Cham, July 2016

After Kampong Cham, we took another van to the city of Siem Reap. This drive was a bit longer, about five hours. My favorite city we visited in Cambodia was Siem Reap. The town is very busy and densely populated. The low hanging and thick electrical lines certainly make the city feel even more crowded. Of the three cities visited in Cambodia, Siem Reap was the most modern and westernized. A fun area to visit in Siem Reap is the infamous Pub Street. This street is home to dozens of bars and restaurants. The street is definitely where all the action is at! There are people buzzing the streets all night long. Pub Street reminds me of a mini Times Square.

Most hotels I stayed in did not have American outlets ( I wish I brought a converter ), so I could not do my hair. While in the city, I stopped in a beauty shop and got my hair styled for $5 USD. Not a bad deal! Siem Reap is also known for its night markets. We went to so many markets in Cambodia and I never got tired of them! Each market is so different and unique. I felt very much apart of the Khmer culture when visiting the markets. When I was in Cambodia, the summer olympics were happening. The only time I got to watch the olympics was when we were at Common Grounds Cafe. This cafe is an internet cafe that serves great food and coffee. I recommend stopping at Common Grounds while in Siem Reap.

Siem Reap is best known for Angkor Wat: the largest and oldest temple in the world. The temple is what most people visit Cambodia for so it can get really crowded. The best time to visit is before sunrise. In front of the temple are two large pools and as the sun rises, the reflection of the temple shines in the pools. At 4AM, we arrived at the ticketing counter for Angkor Wat and were immediately greeted by tuk tuks. I assumed the tuk tuk ride would be fast but rather, I found myself flying through the dark Cambodian jungle for close to 20 minutes! Riding a tuk tuk in the dark was worth the visit all in itself! Once we got to the temple, everyone was lined up near the pools to watch the beautiful display of color that was about to happen. After the sun rose, we headed into the temple. You could spend a lot of time roaming the corridors of the temple. Tours are offered, but I recommend exploring on your own! Walking through, I was amazed at the intricate details everywhere I looked. To think that this temple was built in the 12th century, reminds me of how hard working and resilient the human race is. Keep in mind, the temple is an active Buddhist place of worship. Please be respectful and quiet as you explore the temple.

Surrounding the temple are dozens of vendors. This is good spot to grab a cup of coffee and a breakfast pastry for your tuk tuk ride back. Don’t worry about catching a tuk tuk, there are several drivers that line up and wait for tourists.

Cambodia broke my heart and grew me in ways I didn’t know possible. I think the best way to sum up my experience is by my journel post shortly after I arrived home from my Khmer adventure: “After being home a week, I've finally escaped the nightmares of what I saw and experienced in Cambodia and Thailand and have started to process everything that happened. For those of you asking how my trip went, it was horrible and beautiful all at the same time. I was able to discover who I am, how much God cares about his people, and how much value I have to offer. “

Where I Stayed:

While in Phenom Penh, I stayed at the New Midtown Hotel. This hotel was the nicest hotel we stayed at in Cambodia. The hotel had a bathroom with a door, a shower with a glass door, delicious free breakfast ( the breakfast room is non-airconditioned), and even a rooftop. I loved climbing up to the rooftop and viewing the city.

In Kampong Cham, I stayed at the Daly Hotel. Believe it or not, this hotel was connected to a brothel. This was not an easy hotel to stay at. I don't think I got a minute of sleep while staying here. For my purposes of the trip, this hotel was perfect. But if you are going to Cambodia strictly as a tourist, I recommend staying elsewhere.

While in Siem Reap, I stayed at the Villa Sok San Hotel. The Villa Sok was a beautiful hotel that was surround by water and gorgeous flowers. The hotel was in close proximity to great restaurants and the night market.

Best Time To Visit:

Winter

the ultimate pacific north west trip.

the ultimate california road trip.